Monday, January 31, 2011

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Per concludere , un tributo video alla cresta di piancaformia:

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30.01.2011 30.01.2011 Cresta Piancaformia

Ore 6:30...stavolta si anticipa sigh...ma non lamentiamoci, qualcuno ci precede di ben 1 ora e mezza: a noi è andata di stralusso!!!
Oggi assalto al Grignone: noi per la Piancaformia, Alessandra da Balisio, Ricky, Andrea e (crediamo) Simone West from the canyon.
"Those who arrive last pay to drink" ... this is the warning of Ricky ... already fear eaters gradients !!!!!
Here we are on the march ... and as usual the sun is on that mountain there: why do not we decided to go there?



We climb in the woods thinking about what lies ahead as usual ... I wonder if I'll arrive somewhere or not ... Piero and Maurizio meditate.

parties to achieve the nozzle Piancaformia and from there the ridge.
Fausto is strangely silent.
"We only us who wake up early in the morning (with a headache )..."
front of us ... someone who is already engaged the mind is crowded with thoughts and the pace begins to become smooth and curious.



Here we are in between ups and downs ... do you sbanfa, laughing, for the most part is silent, but we have fun.


Fausto proves himself and salt, salt, salt

... ... then you go down, down, down.

Piero keeps an eye on the troops ...

Fausto ... looks a bit 'worried. .. then does the dowser "There will be wine around here ?"...


Proceed delicate among frames, empty scary, canyons and plenty of snow everywhere. Sometimes the pick makes a dull sound of vacuum while beating on the ice "Tunc"
... I do not think about it, even if there is a vacuum can not help it ... you just go!


Continuation fast, I stop for one last photo with friends before a nice long sloping wall ... I'm just having fun ... we hope not to make cows and wrong way!

I go on, and still emerge far forward as I see a pylon, staining the snow for the first excrement of choughs that will surely live around the refuge and have said that is not far ahead .... Annina, you can do it !!!!!

and comes out at 12:30 at the church! I'm happy and I do not true! there are many people around me, none for now that I know with whom to share my joy, but it's better that way ... I would say only become low ... but I look around me excited and the Soul is filled with beauty and grandeur! After a while
'Oscar here ...



Mauritius ... and then ...


... and finally last but not least Fausto here that looks like a beaten dog poked by Piero, but instead is very satisfied! great!


freezes, but the brave smile for the photo of the top! EVVAIIII! Polenta is waiting for us (yes, yes ... wait and hope!)

... but where are those who meanwhile had to climb from the channel W, fall, and rise ripellare ? we have to pay to drink? ... or not ?!...
A bit 'worried ask for information to a group that leaves the channel and tell me that "our" are coming ... I know, I know that here we will chop!

Alessandra awaits us in the shelter punctually.

Here are two legendary ... (or crazy ?)... I think the first to the west with skis on their shoulders ...


Andrea out of the channel ... bbravo, bbravo!



After trying to keep warm nell'affollatissimo refuge and trying in vain for a chocolate that nobody wants to do ("Do you think that with all these people can prepare to put your chocolate?" He says nice type of refuge ... never thought of changing jobs?) we start on the way back. Now I envy friends with ski ...

The descent is infinite, but the snow (a lot) and we enjoy each candidate is exalted in his own way ... Oscar dancing to the moon ... the sun ... oops!

... with a little 'of nostalgia and a hint of incredulity we ask "... but we were right there?"

good at all!

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Pialeral-Briones (solo)

Finally my first report after so many times I read with a tinge of envy those of other ... Envy positive means, because to see someone doing what you want you also spurs you to think that it is feasible, despite your 40 years, despite the beginning of late to attend the mountain because it is "a beautiful region .. . And that sucks! Most want you to say that force must stay on the beach and warm enough, that this is not for you, instead no. Qualcosa si smuove dentro, ma non posso pretendere che chi arrampica o scia divinamente possa pensare di starmi dietro. Così decido che è meglio arrampicare con un istruttore o fare piccoli itinerari in solitaria. Itinerari in solitaria, appunto questo per me è il terzo, tecnicamente meno preoccupante ma fisicamente il più faticoso. Mi faccio spiegare bene l'itinerario dal mio fido consigliere in materia di alpinismo (chissà come fa ad avere stampati a memoria tutti i percorsi, mah), quindi lascio la macchina nel parcheggio di Balisio vicino alla chiesetta in una strada sterrata e desolata (paura!). Comincio ad avviarmi.

L'inizio del percorso


Sola soletta in mezzo al forest


Almost at Pialeral


the snow starts, the path is well marked, too bad for the low clouds


nice meeting. Giotto where are you?


Arrival at the camp, beginning on ice, crampons better and better learn how to do it right! Maybe a little bit faster ...


But where is the refuge? It seems to walk endlessly without ever reaching ... The clouds did not help of course ... What path spaccagambe ...


Dolce crest


Alle 12,00 in punto eccomi alla croce, finalmente!


Arrivo al rifugio e l'unico che incontro è il Grigna che mi aggiorna sulla posizione degli altri. Io li aspetto, e quando arrivano ridente sbevazzata, foto con bandiera insieme al Presidente e poi si scende tutti assieme! 4 gentili cavalieri (Maurizio, Fausto, Oscar e Piero) mi accompagnano fino alla stradina sperduta dove l'unica auto rimasta era appunto la mia e si torna a casa. Bellissimo!
Beh, che dire, è stato bello alzare un pò il tiro e vedere che si potrebbe osare ancora di più, quindi aspetto che la fervida mente del caro Ale mi proponga altri itinerari gustosi come questo.
A presto

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La montagna è quella cosa capace di metterti a nudo, ridimensionarti e farti capire quanto tu sia piccolo, è una maestra dura, ma è anche capace di stregarti , e drogarti di lei .
Oooh che parole pesanti, è vero,ma è il succo della giornata di ieri è proprio questo.
Ma andiamo per ordine; questa volta non all’ ultimo come accade spesso decidiamo la meta, per sta domenica è il canalone ovest del Grignone .
Scarichiamo relazioni e foto, guardiamo i tempi di percorrenza, insomma organiziamo proprio bene il tutto.
Anzi , come vedrete dai prossimi report , ognuno è venuto su da una parte diversa who by and who by Pialleral Piancaformia , fa'pure is a bet; the 'last payment coming to drink at all.
But since we are never content to make even more ' profitable the trip, so why not bring up the skis and then also direct access to the refuge. ...
Since we will be on time for the 11, it is useless to stand around waiting for the others ... So we thought, but things are not quite go as we had hoped ....
The day starts just fine, I can lock the orzomobile snow in the parking lot of Cainallo .
is because we are superior to others, we have a 4x4 and those who stopped more ', a question came to me when I saw the Fiat Panda 4x4 bus stop before the' last bend, but as mentioned before, we are in a barrel of iron
... And in fact we come slowly the parking lot, and it took but when do we reverse a bit 'too much snow on the tombola and the wheels spin freely, it should be put the 4x4, no, reduced Porca Vacca ... no ... we're stuck!
Be the mountains chains ... so beautiful 'idea pity that the snow is up to the hub. ...
pulls out the shovel, shoveling, and eventually they go out, sweaty, and the first teaching ; better to do 5 min. the road in more 'more than losing ' half an hour to pull the machine out. The climb to
Bietti proceeds well enough, at some point we decide to try to put the skis, but we proceed on foot more 'easily, and while we wonder, I wonder why no one has had our idea of \u200b\u200bskiing .... But begin to understand it, you feel the weight of the backpack and other people passing by more ' quickly, seemed to be the leader of "Missing " with his armor hanging on the back ... After the
Bietti we know that we check our channel, nice tracks shortly after firing up, but we have pictures reports, and much pride, no that's not the 'right and attack more ' in the behind that ridge. (After we understand that with those traces are difficult to reuse)
And indeed reach the we prepare and go, if the channel is called because everything ends up falling in there, other strings more 'to feed the flow of snow and ice down and we must be careful not to get hit by these projectiles.
tried to stay attached to the rock wall on one side, so as to be protected but the pieces that come bouncing and pounding us the same. We come finally to
goulottina which is classified I-II degree, pass the ice is a bit ' more' complicated, the ice is thin and climbing vertically is dangerous, we choose to navigate to the right, the beam is also difficult, the thickness of ice is 50 to 10 cm to put a nail to protect it is difficult but we try.
2 times I feel the nail touch the rocks below, but I try to first take off my glove so I work better, supporting the front of the eyes on a small ledge, while traffic is harden lives feel your calves, I have to look at the tension see below and the void. ... Calm the hook you grip and well stuck a pike can not 'nothing happens
relax ... But here you hear a hiss and a piece of ice that arrives, falls in front of me and explode when I open my eyes I look ahead me and the glove is not more ', in compesso of shrapnel took my hand and now bleeding ...
"You're an idiot!" I say to myself, how many times you say to others ... And now you do, fuck the gauntlet, fuck the nail, and even the hand without glove delivery and finish the shot with no more 'put in anything.
I can take a break and look up spades Andrea, I reached over and stops several meters in an area a bit 'less steep.
I have to take the gloves in reserve, but this operation on the vertical is quite complicated, but with the calm you can not do everything.
finally feel the heat back in hand, by not over, we're not even halfway 'and how long must we already '
lost ... but now we must 'return to the channel and then another left turn.
If there was ice under the snow here is more 'soft, but this is not an advantage because we have to make good impressions to make sure that the snowpack hold, finally get to the rocks but are rotten, if it seemed one was fine ... I look
Andrea dall’ altra parte siamo entrambi tesi, la testa è la cosa piu importante in certe circostanze .
Viti da ghiaccio non servono con questa neve non farebbero presa , ma vedo attaccato al imbrago un chiodo da roccia , in un punto abbastanza solido trovo una fessura, e lo pianto il rumore diventa sempre piu ’acuto la roccia non si apre , tiene !
Basta un chiodo come protezione che ritorna la serenita ’, continuo fino a rientrare nel canale , Ormai il passo chiave è stato superato, qua i ramponi prendono bene e le picche pure , non ci resta che seguire il verticalita ’.
Ormai vediamo pure i nostri amici, che hanno finito la Piancaformia , missing 100 meters at the end, Andrea
untie it and passed me, I make some pictures and I enjoy this moment now I'm alone, I feel the tension that is loose and gets in my face a strange fatigue, but not over it still lacks to exit. Seeking
forces within me, Andrea has now come, curse the weight of the backpack and the idea of \u200b\u200bskiing, but in the end I am to climb over the railing and only then realize that it's over. Or better
now comes the fun part, everyone is already 'came over to tease and why we came last, we have to also pay for a drink!

After pulling the car out of the snow we are reaching the Bietti .
Classica foto alla porta di Prada .
Come si vede la neve non è sufficente per usare gli sci.
Sopra la testa di Andrea il canale.
Andrea sta' sul lato vicino alle rocce per evitare di essere preso dalla roba che cade dall'alto.
Notate nel centro del canale che solco creato.
Eccoci alla goulottina .
Dalla sosta sulle picche, ecco arrivare il Presidente.
Finalmente rieccoci nel canale.
Andrea è gia ' arrivato.
Un ultimo sguardo verso il canale fatto.
Finalmente scavalco la ringhiera.
Alessandra è arrivata su da sola dal Pialleral , merita una foto con la bandiera.

Bella figura, ma soprattutto che insegnamento , mai sottovalutare le cose, mai fare gli sborroni , ma soprattutto mai perdere la testa.
Una persona normale venderebbe il everything you would fishing .... But we are not normal ... Login to write that you 'Sunday?

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Ingredients In Oragel

Monte Toro and Valgussera

Today saw the stupid weather we stay close to home trying their luck in that Foppolo. We start walking up the runway is still closed and then move with a long traverse to the pitch Dordona


After a super ice through which commits us not just to the right we deviate towards the base of the big side of Mount Taurus.


between steep rocky cliffs


We come out from the ridge where you have a beautiful view of the Taurus


Now we we must lower on the North side for a nice down ...


Ravenclaw falls ill ... and overwhelmed by the curse of the chain!


But it goes on under a beautiful snowfall mettarà down at the end ... well maybe a couple of inches but is a rare thing these days! All
the summit of Monte Toro 2524m


descent on snow all kinds of good stuff but little. At an altitude of 1800 Baitella ripelliamo rising to Valgussera, Cimetta better served by the plant, from which descend the slopes. Even today our altitude of 1400m there they are made. Here, thanks to the GPS elevation profile of the Nano